CHATHAM ISLANDS - November 2019
What an adventure! Our club’s first offshore trip – well, still in New Zealand but flying to a remote island.
November 10th - away at last, a day later than expected due to the plane being unable to leave the Chathams the day before because of fog. Twenty one excited passengers were transported by bus through driving rain to our plane.
After a two hour flight we arrived in sunshine to a very warm welcome from the hotel owner, Tony Croom, Francesca from the office, Matilda (driver and tour guide) and Kai the chef. We settled in our comfortable rooms at Hotel Chatham – some at Travellers’ Rest up the hill. Superb dinner followed and we received information about the week to follow.
After a two hour flight we arrived in sunshine to a very warm welcome from the hotel owner, Tony Croom, Francesca from the office, Matilda (driver and tour guide) and Kai the chef. We settled in our comfortable rooms at Hotel Chatham – some at Travellers’ Rest up the hill. Superb dinner followed and we received information about the week to follow.
Owenga fishing port
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The next day after breakfast we set off by bus for our first day adventure. There was a strong wind blowing and some icy showers. We were joined by Debbie as a guide while Matilda drove. At Tikitiki Hill we took a short walk to look down on the wharf. Some hardy souls continued up the steep hill for a wider view.
We then went on to the Kopinga Moriori Marae, a building shaped like an albatross with outspread wings, beautifully decorated with traditional Moriori carvings and treasures. Debbie gave us a full introduction to her culture as we were welcomed on to the marae.
Tommy Solomon statue
A full afternoon followed visiting the statue of Tommy Solomon, the last full-blooded Moriori. The lovely blue Chatham Island forget-me-nots were still flowering in the small reserve – a wonderful sight.
Then on to the Norman Kirk Memorial Reserve with a sports club, a jockey club dating from 1874, netball courts, a rugby field and a colourful children’s playground.
That night we enjoyed a fabulous seafood banquet at the hotel - crayfish, blue cod, paua starred.
Poroporo
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Chatham Islands flax
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Native wild turnip
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Chatham Island forget-me-not
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Margaret amongst the hare's tails
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Day Three we travelled to the south coast, Taiko, for two short bush walks and lunched at the River Onion Gallery. A delightful meal in interesting surroundings, hosted by the owner Bubbles, a talented photographer. In the afternoon we did a longer walk in the Henga Reserve through an amazing open kopi forest to a lookout with views over the ocean. As we drove around we noted the windswept akeake trees, a feature of the island.
In the kopi forest
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Akeake
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Marilyn, splatter rocks
Day Four to the Thomas Mohi Tuuta Reserve and Rangitaika and then to a warm welcome and lunch at the Owenga Club, where there was an historic cemetery. On to a nikau conservation area and beautiful beach, a volcanic area with “splatter rocks”.
Day Five – Another full day. First a walk to Nunuku’s Cave with it’s engravings on the limestone walls, where we learned more of the Moriori story. After that a visit to the Ohira Bay basalt columns, part of a lava flow, then lunch at Port Hutt Fish Factory, followed by a visit to the renowned Stone Cottage occupied by an elderly lady, Helen Birt, and her dogs and cat. In this remote spot without the usual modern-day amenities she has tended a stunning garden. This was a blaze of colour from a mix of daisies and other perennials. We left there full of admiration for her pioneer spirit and cheerful welcome.
The Stone Cottage
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Basalt columns, Ohira Bay
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Moriori carvings on kopi tree
On our final day we saw the unique tree carvings at Hapupu. These are of great significance to the Moriori people and are now protected to preserve the symbols of ancestors and the natural world.
A visit to a seal colony followed and we sat in the sunshine watching the playful seals in the sheltered waters behind the outer reef. Fortunately, we were protected from a torrential storm with thunder and lightning as we ate our lunch at Kaingaroa.
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Chatham Islands Christmas tree
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Our final dinner was at Admiral Gardens. This was the icing on the cake to cap off a wonderful week. The owners Lois and Val Croon, the original owners of the hotel at Waitangi, have a interesting garden and have built a beautiful home where we were wined and dined and learnt more of the history of this fascinating place.
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Next morning we flew back to Auckland with happy memories of a trip where we saw amazing sights, interesting bird life and unique plants, and varying landscapes, but what will remain with us is the warm welcome and hospitality from everyone we met on the island.
This is a very special place and even more so because of the people who live there.
With special thanks to leader Marilyn Page for a huge effort in coordinating this trip for the club.
Thanks also Marilyn for writing this record, and to photographers Jennifer, Vanessa and Marilyn.